Italian Tri-Color Cookies

Every year around the Christmas holiday, I enjoy preparing a menu of sweet treats that I bake and share with family and friends. It is a tradition that has been handed down from my mother. I can still remember watching her bake dozens of cookies. She would lay them out on wax paper sheets that would cover the counters, the kitchen table, the dining room table, every flat surface that could be found. Then after they cooled, she would store them in Tupperware containers that would be stacked up in the kitchen. Of course, me and my three sisters would sneak into those containers for our favorite treats, even though we were supposed to wait until the gift trays were made and accounted for. I find this same scenario playing out in my own household now and although it can be a little frustrating to watch the cookies disappear quicker than I would like, it also brings me back to my own childhood impulsivities and makes me smile to know that history is repeating itself in a welcoming and familiar way. Every year I bake some traditional favorites that represent my Italian- Polish heritage, however, I always like to add a new recipe or two that will challenge me to try a new technique or add a new flavor. Like my peppermint striped sugar cookies and stamped citrus shortbreads. This year, I added Italian Tri-Color Cookies to the repertoire. These are a classic Italian cookie (so I’m not sure what took me so long to add them to my list) but I loved them so much, that I think they will become a main-stay in my Christmas cookie line up from now on! I give all the credit and inspiration to Lidia Bastianich for this one! She is on my short-list of culinary influences. If you know anything about Italian cuisine and cooking, then surely you know who Lidia is! I found this recipe to be a bit of a challenge due to the consistency of the batter, mixing the food coloring to the correct tint (although I prefer to use a plant-based coloring that contains less artificial coloring), layering the sponge cakes, and cutting through layers of cake and chocolate. Practice and patience prevail with this recipe, but the end results will be so worth it!

Ingredients

2 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened, plus more for the pans
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pans
8 ounces almond paste
1 cup sugar
4 large eggs, separated
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Red and green food coloring (gel preferred)
1 15-ounce jar smooth raspberry or apricot jam
Cooking spray
1 pound bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Directions

***You’ll need three 9-by-12-inch jelly roll pans or rimmed baking sheets to make these layered cookies.

You’ll need three 9-by-12-inch jelly roll pans or rimmed baking sheets to make these layered cookies.
Prep the pans: Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 350 degrees F. Butter and flour three 9-by-12-inch jelly roll pans or rimmed baking sheets and line with parchment paper.
Make the batter: Combine the almond paste and 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed until the mixture is in fine crumbles. Beat in 2 1/2 sticks butter, a few pieces at a time, until well combined. Beat in the egg yolks, one at a time, until smooth.
Sift 2 cups flour onto a sheet of parchment and sprinkle the salt on top; add to the mixer bowl and beat until just combined.
In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until foamy; while whisking, slowly add the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and whisk until firm peaks form (or use a hand mixer). Fold about one-third of the egg white mixture into the batter with a rubber spatula, then gently fold in the rest. The batter should be fluffy.
Color the batter: Divide the batter evenly among 3 bowls. Stir enough red food coloring into 1 bowl to make a deep salmon color. Stir enough green food coloring into another bowl to make a medium green color. Leave the third bowl uncolored.
Bake the layers: Transfer the batter to the prepared pans (one pan for each color). Dip an offset spatula in water and spread the batter to the edge of each pan, smoothing the tops. Bake, switching the position of the pans halfway through until the cakes are cooked through and just beginning to brown around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely in the pans on wire racks.
Assemble the layers: Spread half of the jam evenly over the green cake layer almost all the way to the edges. Unmold the plain cake layer by inverting it onto another pan or cutting board; peel off the parchment.
Carefully slide the plain layer onto the green layer (use a wide offset spatula to help you, if necessary). Spread the remaining jam on top of the plain layer. Unmold the red cake layer and slide it onto the plain layer.
Cover the cake with plastic wrap and top with one of the empty pans; place several heavy cans on top to weigh down the layers. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.
Unmold the cake: Remove the cans and plastic wrap. Place a cutting board on top of the cake and flip to unmold it onto the cutting board. Remove the parchment from the top of the green layer.
Trim the cake: Trim the sides with a knife to make straight edges. Spray a wire rack with cooking spray; set the rack over a baking sheet. Carefully slide the cake onto the rack, using a wide offset spatula to help you, if necessary.
Cover in chocolate: Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water; pour over the cake. Dip an offset spatula in the hot water and smooth the top and sides. Let set slightly. Scrape wavy lines into the chocolate with a fork; let cool a few more minutes until the chocolate is mostly set but still slightly tacky.
Cut into pieces: Slide the cake back onto the cutting board. Slice crosswise into 6 strips, then cut each strip into 8 rectangular pieces. For clean edges, dip the knife in warm water and wipe it with a cloth between cuts. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
If the lines in the chocolate don’t hold their shape, let the chocolate set a little longer and try again.

Recipe Credit: Lidia Bastianich